## The Sidfplaited Skirt

Lessons III and IV are devoted to skirts and it will be well for the student to thoroughly master these, as any part slurred over will cause trouble later on.

Fig. F is a combination of a side-plaited and a box-plaited skirt. The student is expected to draw two skirls and not comMne them as done on the lesson plate.

Begin with the side-plaited skirt (Fig. F which is a full front view). Draw the form, being sure to make a graceful ellipse at the top, and after placing the belt as directed in Lesson II, mark oft at the waist the size of the center box-plait, the sides of which are an even distance from the center line. Decide upon the width of the side plaits, which must be in good proportion to the box-plait, and on each side of the box plait mark them oft, being sure to have all the plaits the same width. From these points draw lines down, flaring slightly until they touch the bottom line of the skirt form. Each plait will touch this line at X, the nearest point 0 is back, draw so, as in the skirt with fullness at the bottom (Lesson II), but make each plait a sharper point than in the gathered skirt. The deeper the plait the farther back 0 is from X. The plaits are wider at the bottom than at. the top. Not being stitched down, they open somewhat after leaving the belt.

the box plaited skirt

After drawing a complete form for this skirt and placing the belt as directed before, draw the front box-plait, marking the size at the waist. On each side of this front plait, mark oft the distance between it and the next plait, then the size of the following box-plait, which must be the same width as the first one, until all the plaits are marked at the waist. Draw all lines down until they touch the bottom line of the form, flaring slightly as in the side-plaited skirt. You will observe that each box-plait has two XX's, and a very gentle curve up between them. The star (*) is the distance between the box-plaits, and is back, the same as 0. This star line curves up, and the deeper the plait the higher the star line is from X.

For both box-plaited and side-plaited skirts be careful to make the plaits even at the bottom and at the top, and if your lines are straight the width between the top and the bottom will also be even.

the over-skirf (longer in the back)

To the student with untrained eye the lines of an over-skirt, panier, and puft seem very confusing, but after studying and drawing the three figures G, H, and I, the literal meaning of the lines will be understood, and the student will be able to use this knowledge to great advantage when sketching from a costume.

In Fig. G, for example, one side of the over-skirt is plaited and the other side is gathered. It will be well for the student to make two drawings and not combine them as on the lesson plate, thus deriving more practice upon the subject.

This over-skirt is longer in the back than in the front, consequently it shows the under part of each plait.

The under-skirt is sewed on at the waist and flares. Note the guide lines of the

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