STUDENT'S MANUAL OF FASHION DRAWING LESSON III
under-skirt as they run up to the waist line.
The over-skirt is also sewed on at the waist but flares more than the underskirt as it descends. XX is the edge of the fold and hangs straight down. The " square " is the inside crease of the fold, which also hangs straight down from the belt, the lower part only being exposed to view.
Begin with the curved .me in the front of the skirt (that is, after the form is well drawn), then draw XX down from the waist and curve it around. It descends as it goes until it almost touches the under fold (square), where ;t comes out from under the skirt. The under fold hangs down, curves around, descends until it almost touches the next XX, etc. Note the guide lines of one of the plaits as it runs up to the waist line.
The other side of this skirt being gathered, the lines of the fullness at the top fall down between the lines of the fullness which run up from the bottom.
Note how the over-skirt fits around the under-skirt, descending toward the back.
If the student has been successful with the lines of Fig. G, the panier will be easy to draw.
The lines of the panier (Fig. H) are the same as in the over-skirt (Fig. G), but the panier projects at the hips in a ruffle effect while the over-ckirt hangs straight down.
This skirt is drawn three-quarter view, which shows the full panier on the near side and but little of it 011 the far side. Note how different the lines louk on the far side, as you see but little of the under surface of the goods.
the puffed skirt
The lines for the puft are somewhat different and yet somewhat the same as in Fig. G, as the lines curl around and fit into each other. A skirt that is puffed at the hips will extend past the normal skirt line. Note these l:*ies as seen through the puff, but instead of the ruffle effect, as seen 011 the panier, the goods is drawn in again, hence the puff. The puff means that the goods is gathered and is very full, therefore the goods beneath the puff is also very full, as the lines indicate in Fig. 7. The lines under the puff are heavier, caused by the shadow cast by the puff. Note the erispness and the sharpness of the lines as they curl around and fit into each other.
skirt with yoke and tucks
As we learned before " the lines follow the form " so the yoke must fit around the form, hence it follows that the yoke line (it a perfectly plain yoke) will follow the waist line.
If there happens to be a fancy design on the yoke, the general direction of the yoke will fit the form, but will be broken into by the design.
Place the tucks an even distance from the center line the same as the plaits, but if stitched down, as they are in Fig. J, they will not flare. Note the guide lines drawn through the ends of the tucks (where they stop) and where the fullness begins.
To test the knowledge acquired from this lesson draw numerous forma three-quarter view, or full front, and dress them in skirts like the ones illustrated in this lesson. Use pen-and-ink clippings of skirts.
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