The Fashion Plate

Moda Tasar

When you portray a human body it is necessary to remember that you are depicting something that is alive, and in the specific case of fashion design, it is fundamental to observe closely the typical movements which characterize the poses adopted by the models. They are movements which are supple, trim and nimble. The fashion model walks in a way that is absolutely unique, turns and swings her hips in a wonderful way, stops and poses in ways which defy gravity.

The reaction to the gait of a professional fashion model is one of amazement and captivation in the face of so much charm and elegance.

Let us seek to understand together how to capture with a few lines in a drawing these exceptionally flexible and dynamic movements.

In each instance rotation and counter-rotation of the upper body will be analysed, identifying the rhythmic structure and proportions of every pose.

graphic interpretation

Fashion Drawing

The fashion plate is the ideal means of depicting an item of clothing or an entire collection.

It has to be lively in expression, freshly drawn, dynamic in movement, elegant in the pose and portrayed in the positions which are in keeping with the type of clothing chosen. Try not to draw a fashion plate in a pose which is too static or too realistic, the result will be wooden, artificial and not in keeping with the ephemeral and joyous language of the fashion world.

It is also advisable not to portray the fashion plate in positions which block the interpretation of the model. Remember that the body of the model acts as the basis for the item of clothing, but it must not dominate, cover or distort it; it must rather facilitate the legibility of the cut and of the details, accompanying the pattern in its shape, assuming dynamic poses to emphasize spaciousness, sophisticated and sober poses to underline a more rigorous cut and more relaxed poses for a younger one.

rhythmic structure

To make a figure come alive, it is not enough to have a perfect knowledge of anatomy, a copy which is too faithful can harm the image, making it cold and impersonal. It is important, by contrast, to be able to catch the correct position with a few strokes and to distribute bodily weight, signalling inside and outside of the body planes of incidence, lines of comparison, angles and perpendicular lines so that it is possible to reproduce the pose of the model in the most faithful way possible. First of all it is necessary to locate the key line, or put another way the rhythmic structure, which is inherent in every pose. This line can vary enormously, as every figure has its own fundamental rhythm.

First and foremost you should sketch a line in the upper body, passing through the hollow of the neck, the sternum, the navel and the pubic region, which then descends to the ground following the leg, which functions as a support for the body.

In a static figure viewed from the front, the rhythmic structure corresponds to the line which describes the height of the figure.

Method of Execution

To understand how the weight of the various parts of the body is distributed, sketch the rhythmic structure, reduce the body to a skeleton and visualize schematically the principal structures, namely the line of the shoulders, waist, hips and finally the segments which indicate the position and length of the limbs, marking the joints with small circles.

We shall thereby have obtained the outline or the essential structure of the female body.

Then, as the second phase of this procedure, draw on top of the structural skeleton the broad sketch of the figure determining the areas of the body, outlines and the dimensions of the hair,

The result will be a geometrical figure similar to a robot, with all of the joints clearly indicated.

Proceed then to a more detailed analysis of the various anatomical features with a view to reproducing faithfully or almost faithfully the subject under scrutiny.

It is important to draw lightly insofar as there will be a number of pencil strokes superimposed.

Only intensify those that are right for the visualization of the outline, eliminating the others that do not form an integral part of your study. Finally, on a sheet of tracing paper, draw the figure only in outline, removing all the pencil strokes, lines and segments that you have drawn to characterize perfectly every aspect of the body.

The outline that you obtain will be your first fashion plate.

Fashion Body Outline Template

Left to right: outline and arrangement of parts of the body with rhythmic structure. Figure in outline and fashion plate.

Anime Male Body OutlineRhythm Fashion Design SketchesBasic Fashion Plates

Basic fashion plate to bo reproduced

From left to right: Location of the key line or rhythm. Construction of the skeletal structure in outline, sketching the line of the shoulders, of the waist and of the lups.

Schematic representation of the parts of the body.

Fashion Model Sketches

From left to right:

Broad sketch of the whole figure

Detailed analysis of the various anatomical parts.

Copy of the figure obtained in outline





Positive Negative Space

Sequences in succession: Structural analysis and sketch of tiie body.

As in all disciplines, there are also rules that should be followed in drawing to reproduce any subject or composition correctly. One of these rules, probably the most important, is the notion of positive and negative space. The space surrounding the figure is negative, whilst the space that the body occupies in a given area is positive. In every respect it is essential to consider a negative area as positive to achieve the correct reproduction of the given subject.

Sequences in succession: Structural analysis and sketch of tiie body.

Fashion Body Sketches

Model ever more clearly defined. The fashion plate finished in outline and light chiaroscuro.

The visual field around the figure is only negative in appearance. In reality it is a complex structure composed of dynamic forces, tensions, balances, proportional comparisons and depths of perspective.

Let us analyse a figure according to these rules with a view to reproducing it accurately in terms of proportions and position. The use of tracing paper is advised to visualize all of the lines of construction directly over the subject, in order then to proceed to drawing freehand.

Model ever more clearly defined. The fashion plate finished in outline and light chiaroscuro.

Outline For Fashion Design

From left to right: Structural and outline analysis Fashion plate drawn in outline.

Fashion Figure Sketches

From left to right: Structural diagram with robot-like figure. The upper and lower limbs assume various positions fashion plate drawn in outline

Lower Limb Plates

From left to right: Structural analysis. Robot,

Fashion plate partially clothed, drawn in outline figure and structural rhythm figure and structural rhythm

Rhythm Fashion DesignHow Draw Fashion Robo FigureFashion Designing Pictures

Movements in dynamic succession. As the shoulders and the pelvis move, the rhythmic structure of the entire figure changes.

Figure Drawing For Fashion DesignChiaroscuro The BodyFashion Model Sketches
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